Giving Thanks – Many, Many Mushrooms

Tuesday, November 23rd, Portland Farmers Market celebrates holiday eating with a special Thanksgiving Reunion Market.  Springwater Farm will join the market with foraged wild mushrooms and organically grown cultivated varieties, and I’ll be alongside, cooking up their amazing wares & paring mushrooms with produce and products from around the market in a number of Thanksgiving dishes.

Here’s the Thanksgiving Mushroom Menu brought to you by Springwater Farm & Sage Culinary Advice:

Stuffed Shiitake Mushroom hors d’oeuvres

Wild Mushroom Dressing

Chanterelle & Shiitake Gravy

“Cauliflower” Mushroom and Potato Gratin

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Yellowfoot Chanterelles

Truffled Celery Root Puree

And while we’re not necessarily suggesting you use mushrooms in every one of your Thanksgiving dishes, we do hope to share with you some distinctive savory sides to accompany your feast.  We’ll even guide you through truffling your turkey, if that suits your fancy!

Stop by the Springwater Farm booth to shop, sample, and talk turkey…or mushrooms.  See you at the market!

The Recipes:

Stuffed Shiitake Mushrooms
serves 6

I admit this filling is rather retro, but substitute shiitake for button mushrooms, and what’s old is new…and a lot more interesting this time around!

1 ½ Tbsp. butter
1 ½ Tbsp. flour
1 cup milk
freshly ground black pepper
¼ of a bay leaf
a tiny grating of nutmeg
15 large shiitake mushrooms
3 Tbsp. butter, plus more for buttering the baking dish and “dotting” the mushrooms before they are baked
2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot
3 Tbsp. chopped prosciutto (or salami from Olympic Provisions, right here at the market, you lucky locavore!)
3 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese, or a low-moisture crumbly or grating cheese from the market
about 4 Tbsp. bread crumbs (unflavored)

Make a thick bechamel sauce.  Melt the 1 ½ Tbsp. butter in a small saucepot over a medium flame.  Stir in the flour and cook for a minute, constantly moving the mixture around so that it does not brown.  Whisk in the milk.  Add a pinch of salt, a few grinds of pepper, the bay leaf, and nutmeg.  Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down so that the sauce gently simmers.  Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Strain the sauce through a sieve into a bowl, cover, and set aside until ready to use.

Trim the stems from the mushrooms and chop them fine, along with 3 of the shiitake caps.  Melt the 3 Tbsp. butter in a skillet over a medium-high flame.  Cook the shallots in the butter until they have softened and are a pale gold color.  Add the prosciutto or salami and sauté for another minute.  Stir in the chopped mushroom stems and cook for 3-4 minutes, until the mushroom pieces are tender and cooked.  Drain off any excess oil and remove the mushroom mixture to a bowl.  Blend in enough of the warm bechamel sauce that the mixture is well moistened, but not runny.  Stir in the cheese.  Taste for seasonings.

Pre-heat the oven to 500F.   Butter a baking dish.  Lightly salt the shiitake caps, then fill them with the mushroom mixture.  Sprinkle each with about a teaspoon of bread crumbs.  Dot each cap with butter.  Bake the stuffed mushrooms for 15 minutes on the upper rack of the oven.  Allow the mushrooms 10 minutes to settle before serving.

Wild Mushroom Dressing
serves 8

2 pounds assorted Springwater Farm mushrooms (such as chanterelle, shiitake, maitake, black trumpet, yellowfoot, cauliflower, and hedgehog)
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. butter
½ cup finely sliced leek (white and light yellow part only)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
½ tsp. chopped fresh marjoram
½ tsp. chopped fresh sage
4 large eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
4 cups cubed ciabatta bread, baked in a 350F oven until
dry and lightly browned
1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, or use a hard, crumbly local Farmers Market cheese such as feta
optional – ¼ pound fresh stinging nettles, cooked in boiling salted water, drained, squeezed of most of their liquid, and chopped

Preheat oven to 375F and place the oven rack in the middle of the oven.

Clean and cut mushrooms into large bite-sized pieces.  If using shiitake, slice them a little thinner.  Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet over a high flame.  When the oil is hot (shimmering but not smoking), add the mushrooms and cook over high heat until all of the liquid that the mushrooms give off cooks away.  If your skillet is not large enough to accommodate the mushrooms all at once, you can do this step in batches.  Remove the first batch from the pan when the liquid has cooked away, cook the second batch, then when all are done, return the mushrooms to the skillet and proceed.

Once the water has cooked away from the mushrooms, let them sizzle for a couple of minutes, stirring every so often, then push them away from the center of the skillet and add the butter to the bare spot.  Once it has melted, add the leeks and reduce the heat to medium.  Stir together the mushrooms and leeks, and continue to cook for several more minutes, until the leeks are tender and the mushrooms are thoroughly cooked.  Season all with salt and pepper, and stir in the garlic, thyme, marjoram, and sage.  Cook for another 3 minutes, stirring now and again.  Remove the pan from the heat.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and cream.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add the bread cubes, coating them well with the egg mixture.  Fold in the mushrooms, parsley, and cheese.  Add nettles if using.  Let stand 10 minutes so that the bread can absorb most of the liquid.  During that time, gently mix the ingredients once or twice so that the bread soaks up the liquid evenly.

Butter a casserole dish.  Tip the contents of the bowl into the dish and set it in the oven.  Bake for 45 minutes, then check for doneness.  The top should be nicely browned and the dressing should be moist, but not wet.  Let the dressing rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Mushroom Gravy
makes about 4 cups

Ideally, I use 2 pans to make this gravy.  The good news is that the chanterelles can be cooked ahead, eliminating the need for both pans taking up precious stove real estate when you are trying to pull together your gravy.  In fact, the gravy itself re-heats nicely if you want to make the whole thing in advance.

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
½ pound chanterelle mushrooms (or substitute other wild mushrooms), cleaned and sliced
2 Tbsp. chopped shallot or leek
1 tsp. fresh chopped marjoram or thyme, optional
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup Madeira or sherry
4 Tbsp. butter
½ pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups mushroom broth, poultry broth, vegetable broth, or meat broth

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over a high flame.  When the oil is quite hot (shimmering but not smoking), add the sliced chanterelle mushrooms and cook over high heat, stirring often, until all the liquid that the mushrooms give off cooks away.  Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the shallot or leek and the fresh herbs.  Cook for about 5 more minutes, until the aromatics are tender and the mushrooms are thoroughly cooked and beginning to brown.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Increase the heat once again to high, then add the Madeira or Sherry.  Let the wine bubble away, then remove the pan from the heat.

Next, or simultaneously, add the butter to a wide saucepan and heat over a medium-high flame.  Add the shiitake mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are nicely browned.  Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the flour.  Cook for a couple of minute, moving the ingredients around with your spoon, until the flour begins to brown lightly.  Stir in the broth.  Bring the gravy to a boil, add in the cooked chanterelle mushrooms, then reduce the heat and simmer until thickened to your liking, about 20 minutes.

“Cauliflower” Mushroom and Potato Gratin…
Or any other Mushroom You Like!
serves 4-6

1 pound cauliflower mushrooms, or substitute other wild mushrooms
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 shallot, minced
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cloves garlic, chopped (about 1 ½ tsp.)
¼ cup sherry or white wine
2 ½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes or russet potatoes
2 cups heavy cream
8 oz. goat’s milk feta (or similar cheese)

Pre-heat oven to 350F.  Butter a baking dish (11X7 inch).

Clean and chop the cauliflower (or other) mushroom to the size you desire for the gratin.  You can opt for larger pieces or chopped bits.  Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over a medium-high flame.  When the oil is hot (shimmering but not smoking), add the mushrooms and cook over a high heat until all the liquid that the mushrooms give off cooks away.  Reduce the heat to medium, add the shallot, and cook for 3 more minutes, stirring occasionally.  Season all with salt and pepper.  Add the garlic and cook for a couple more minutes.  Increase the heat once again to high and carefully add the sherry or white wine.  Let the wine bubble away, then remove the pan from the heat.  Set aside while you prepare the potatoes.

Peel and thinly slice the potatoes.  They should be no more than 1/8 of an inch thick.  Do not rinse the potatoes – the starch is what thickens the gratin.  Pour the cream into a wide-bottomed saucepan, large enough to accommodate all of the potatoes.  Heat the cream over a medium flame.  Season the cream with salt and pepper.  When the cream is just about to boil, add all of the potato slices.  Using a spoon or rubber spatula, turn the potatoes over a couple of times to coat them with cream.  Cook them, gently turning them over every so often, until the absorb most of the cream.  There should be a generous coating of cream still clinging to each potato.  Taste for seasonings and adjust as needed.

Layer half of the potatoes in the baking dish.  Spread the mushrooms over the potatoes.  Cover with the rest of the potatoes.  Sprinkle the feta over the top.  Bake for 40 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork.

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Yellowfoot Chanterelles

More method than recipe, I’m following Jim Dixon’s advice via the Good Stuff NW blog post and caramelizing the sprouts with a bit of onion and a good amount of olive oil.  Instead of mustard, I’m adding yellowfoot chanterelles to heighten the flavors and provide an interesting contrast.  I’m keeping it vegan, but a little bacon would do no harm to this dish!
Trim a pound of sprouts, then halve or quarter lengthwise (the flat cut surfaces brown better).  Clean a couple of handfuls of yellowfoot chanterelles (aka winter chanterelles).  Dice a medium onion.

Heat a generous pour of extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet over high heat.  When the oil is hot (shimmering, but not smoking), add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid that comes out of the mushrooms cooks away.  Stir in the onion and a good pinch of sea salt.  Reduce the heat to medium and cook several minutes, until the onion has softened.

Push the mushroom mixture to the sides of the pan.  Reduce the heat to medium low and add the sprouts. Add a little more olive oil if the pan seems dry.  Cook uncovered, turning occasionally, for about 45 minutes, until the sprouts have browned nicely.

Truffled Celery Root Puree

Make celery root mash just as you would mashed potatoes, then stir in chopped truffles.  It’s as simple as that!

Here are a few more tips:
Peel the celery root (celeriac, celery knob) with a sharp knife.  I like to use a serrated knife with thick-skinned winter vegetables.  It lets me saw at them a little, instead of having to use pressure on a sharp straight blade to remove the outer peel of rounded vegetables.

Cut the celery root into chunks, then cook them in a wide, shallow pan with barely enough water to cover them and a good pinch of salt.  Celery root is fairly delicately flavored – cooking it in a large amount of water will allow a good amount of the flavor to float away into the cooking water.

Cover the celery root with a circle of parchment paper, or partially cover with a lid.  Celery root is susceptible to oxidation, like potatoes.  Cooking them soon after cutting and covering them while cooking helps to retain the bright white color.  You can also add a little lemon to the cooking water, but I wouldn’t for this particular preparation.

Use cream and butter when mashing your celery root.  And here’s a bonus – celery root doesn’t have all those starchy starches that potatoes do, so you can puree away in your food processor.  This will give the puree a silky consistency.

Fold in as much chopped truffle as you like.  I like a lot!  And if Springwater Farm has truffle salt available, well that will really boost the truffle flavor – talk about umami!

recipes by
Kathryn Yeomans – Sage Culinary Advice

About Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans

By offering Sage Culinary Advice, The Farmer's Feast assists Farmers' Market shoppers in making the most of their purchases, and helps vendors realize the culinary possibilities of their products. We create culinary education programs at Farmers' Markets. Through food preparation and cooking demonstrations, recipes focusing on technique, samples, stories and free advice, we're encouraging people to cook more often, from scratch, with market-fresh ingredients. Our goal? To cultivate domestic culinary arts. Once you've tasted the Farmer's Feast - glistening local produce, pastured meats, artisan cheese, wild seafood, rich nuts, grains and legumes - and see how easy cooking this bounty can be, you'll be hungry for fresh. Visit The Farmer's Feast on Facebook / E-mail
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2 Responses to Giving Thanks – Many, Many Mushrooms

  1. Patrick Olson says:

    Chef Yeomans, I met you last Sat at the Lake Oswego Market. I was the guy who went home,looked up your web site and wasn’t able to find the recipe for the mushroom dish you were serving, I came back and you gave me your card. I am sorry I still cannot locate that recipe. Thanks for your help.

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